-When checking or adjusting chemicals, always do so in the following order: First, check chlorine or bromine, then alkalinity, and finally PH. Reminder- If (chlorine or bromine) and alkalinity are correct, PH will usually balance automatically or require only small adjustments.When making chemical adjustments, always turn on all pumps first, then add chemical. Run for one cycle 20 to 30 minutes for each chemical you need to adjust. Adjust one chemical at a time in order noted above.
Always allow time for the adjustments to make to fully settle down before testing again. (at least a few hours). Testing too soon after adding chemical could make you over or under adjust that specific chemical.
When doing a complete water change, keep in mind that for the first few days you might have to add a capital or so of chlorine or bromine, in order to create a base saturation level in the water. This may also be the case for alkalinity and or pH in some situations.
Never mix bromine with chlorine or vice versa. If you decide to change your sanitizer you must do a complete water change before switching.
Never feel your hot tub using a water softener. Soft water can cause premature damage to your pump seals and heater element.
Water temperature must be at least 80°F to get an accurate reading from your test strips.
Alkalinity and pH travel in the same direction together if one is too low or too high the other will most likely be too low or too high also.
Spot clear maybe used together with your spa shock to Remy cloudy or discoloured water quickly. It clumps together small particles which of been broken down by shocking, making it easy for them to get caught in the filter. Use about 50 mL with your shock to do this. Check filters after doing this also. They may be clogged with yellowish build up. If so spray clean.
Clean filters regularly. At least once a month. This will aid in the ease of maintaining water clarity.
Chlorine or Bromine (granules or tablets)
-This is your most important chemical. Always keep it within dial the ideal range on your test strips container.
-higher is better than lower for controlling bacteria growth, but to high could be hard on your skin. Too low a level will cause water to change colour due to bacteria growth.
-use granules to quickly build up a saturation level after doing a complete water change , or for daily routine maintenance . use a quarter to a half a cup for start ups after a complete change , and two tablespoons daily , after last use that day as routine maintenance. Note: adjust accordingly depending on hot tub usage.
-use Minitabs in a floating dispenser to maintain a controlled level of sanitizer between uses. I just according to usage.
-this is your second most important chemical. Always keep it within the ideal range on your test strips container.
-Alka-up is a pH stabilizer. As long as your alkalinity is within range, your pH will balance more easily.
-alkalinity is like a magnet surrounding the outside wall of a water molecule. Without it, other chemicals cannot adhere to the water molecule which makes them all less effective.
-as your water ages, the alkalinity will decrease (Wear out). Too much sanitizer i.e. chlorine or bromine, but we are down alkyl any faster as well. Not controlling your sanitizer and allowing bacteria to build up to higher levels (eg. greenish or brownish water) Will result in lower the alkalinity also.
-depending on usage, eventually your alkalinity will start to deteriorate. When this happens, adding Elka Apple only temporarily fix the problem. At the same time you may notice problems with trying to control your pH up-or-down. This is a sign that your water is close to being ready to be changed. A water sample maybe brought in at this time to determine how many total dissolved solids are in your water. If the test shows 1500 to 2000 ppm of TDS, it is time to change the water. Your water should be changed twice a year as a general rule.
PH (up/down) Logic (plus/minus)
-if pH is too high, use pH down to correct. If pH is too low use pH up to correct. Paul directions on back of bottles to determine usage amount. NOTE: before adjusting pH, always make sure sanitizer and alkalinity are a proper levels first.
-when pH is too high you will probably notice your eyes will have a burning feeling, when pH is too low however, your water becomes acidic and can release cost to gases as well as ruin heater elements and discolour tub jets etc. Better to keep higher and lower.
Spa Shock/ Part 2
-use when water is cloudy or discolored. Spa shock breaks down and burns off organic contaminants.
-keep cover open and remove pillows if removable when shocking, do you eliminate edging, damaging, discolouring these items.
-do not use hot tub for about four hours after shocking, to allow chemical to calm down.
Shocking should be done at least once a week or whenever you see water starting to get cloudy. Use 4 to 6 caps weekly or 2 to 3 caps every other day as regular maintenance to prevent cloudiness from occurring.
Foam-Free Foam Away
-only use one foam is persistent (heavy foam build up around edges that doesn’t disappear quickly). Mild filming is normal in hot tubs.
-three main causes of foam are: large amounts of body oils, hand creams, tanning lotions etc. (Spa Ball will help with this), freshly laundered bathing suits-soap is a hot tubs enemy, and if chemicals are out of balance (extremely high or low).
-dilute foam free in two parts solution one part water and put in a spray bottle to use. This will make it last three times longer!
Stain and Scale/ Prevent II
-use 100 mL for every start up. (complete water change)
-used 30 to 50 mL once every week as regular maintenance. Start with 30 mL and increase if water lines are hard to wipe off of acrylic.
-mix white water lines and spots wipe off more easily. Protects heater elements from heavy build ups.